GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK
Philadelphia, November 1850

CHIT-CHAT OF NOVEMBER FASHIONS.

To commence with out-door dress, it will be noticed that the favorite materials for walking costumes are merino, cashmeres, and silks. The first are exquisitely fine and soft, falling to the figure almost like mousseline. Plain colors are most in favor, and, most of all, a new rich hue of dark brown; this is the most distingue of the multitude of shades that pile the counters of our merchants. Among them are every variety of greens, blues, crimson, corn color, purples, browns, and scarlets. The same hues are in cashmere, with the advantage of being lighter and a trifle less costly. There are several styles of trimming for these heavy materials; one very simple, alternate rows of wide and very narrow plain silk braid, or galloon. A more expensive mode is velvet of the same color as the dress, embroidered with narrow braid, which has a richer effect than embossing, and, being so heavy, is suitable for an out-door costume. Alternate folds of cashmere and satin are also very pretty, but not decidedly new. Worsted lace is also much used, and a quilling of plain or velvet ribbon is always elegant.

Figured cashmeres and mousselines are by no means in so good taste as the plain. There is always a wall-paperish effect, and especially the present season of large figures and bright colors. The principal patterns are the palm leaf, bouquet, and wreath; a few are spotted, but no checks are worn by ladies, being entirely given up to the nether integuments of the sterner sex, where they flourish in all their breadth and depth of coloring.

Of silks, we have the solitaire, which, we are sorry to say, is not so generally adopted as we should like to see. It is too severe for those long accustomed to the shot and brocade silks long in vogue, but eventually will come into favor with all, as now with the few. They are either plain or corded Mantua, and of sombre hues. As a softening to the solitaire, we have the chene silks revived, in an infinite number and variety of patterns. Watered silks, being truly elegant, still are worn, and brocades, of course; the last have the same objection as the cashmere of which we have spoken.

And now for shawls, cloaks, and mantillas, of which there is an endless host to choose from. Cashmere and India shawls will, of course, always be worn by those who can afford the enormous prices; though their imitations are so excellent as scarcely to be detected. For ourselves, we prefer the Parisian shawls, the fabric being softer, and the patterns, bouquets, and wreaths of flowers much more graceful than the everlasting palm. But, then, they have not the prestige of the real India. We should advise our lady readers, in choosing a shawl of these styles, to select a white centre, or an undecided shade, if white is objected to as easily soiled. The reason is obvious. Their price will not allow them to be thrown a side after a winter's wear, and a white centre may be brought into harmony with any shade or hue that may by turn be in vogue. Thus, the glowing contrasts of red, green, and blue will be avoided, although crimson at the present day is allowable with any shade.

Blanket, or tartan shawls are quite as much in favor as ever; indeed, inasmuch as they are softer and finer every year, they are the more sought for. A woolen shawl of this description is indispensible to the toilet of every lady; for morning promenades, evening wraps, or traveling, they are full of comfort. The two favorite styles are the large, broad, bright-colored tartans. Worn when they first came in more than twenty years ago, as pruple, black, green, and white, blue and orange, green and crimson, etc. etc. Another style are all in one color, except a narrow border; as a crimson centre, with a little white to relieve it; stone color, with a bar of orange, blue with the same, green with a stripe of crimson, etc. etc. These are, to our taste, the most preferable.

Cloaks are of velvet and cloth, principally. Merino is not worn nearly as much as in the past few seasons. The velvets are mostly trimmed with quilled velvet or satin ribbon the same shade, embroidery, embossing, or fur. The fur is decidedly the greatest novelty and the most elegant. It always gives a softness and grace to the figure. The band is broad, as will be noticed in the one we have given, being a fac-simile of those that pile the counters of Stewart's shawl-room. The loose hanging sleeves are lined with white silk or stain, and are especially becoming to a tall figure. The cloth used is a light material, known by the Parisians as "habit cloth." Stone colors, green, and brown, of different shades, are mostly worn. For one who dresses on a moderate income, we would recommend the cloth by all means, as far less costly, and often producing quite as elegant an effect. They have mostly a simple trimming of three rows of braid, the one in the centre being more than twice the width of the others. They are usually lined throughout with silk.

Mantillas are principally laid aside until February, though some in velvet, and even cloth, are still seen.

There is little change in the shape and style of bonnets - less than in almost everything else. The brims are more flowing, longer at the ears, and the crowns are flat once more, though slightly rounding on the edge. The casing bonnets have what is called a "melon crown," the strips of reed or whalebone going across instead of around them, something in the style of a ribbed cantelope, from which the name arises. Velvet, corded silks, and plain Mantua, are the materials. We shall speak more particularly of bonnets, and give a description of Genin's celebrated Jenny Lind riding-hat, in our next chit-chat.

FASHION.