Godey's Lady's Book

GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK
Philadelphia, February 1850

A SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF DEATH OF LOUIS XIV. TO FEMALE COSTUME, FROM THE OUR OWN DAYS.– NO. X.

COMPILED FROM THE FRENCH AUTHORITIES.

BY A MANTUMAKER.

THE DIRECTORY AND CONSULATE.

FASHION did not, because it could not, perish; and the termination of the Reign of Terror saw it resume its power over costume. We will pass over the Saturnalia of the Goddesses of Reason during the directory or regency of the Republic.

After the 9th of Thermidor, the women of France would naturally have returned to the old costume, but for the circumstance that the mistresses of the toilet were not members of the old court. The society of bewitching marchionesses was diffused over all Europe, and a coterie altogether new had replaced them. Under the influence of republican ideas, the spirit of imitation of the Greeks and Romans was carried to great excess. The passion of one great painter for antiquity was everywhere visible m the new costumes. David arranged costumes for the great functionaries, uniforms for the army, and was the master of ceremonies of the Republic. When men dressed like senators, women, as a consequence, could not bedizen themselves like marchionesses and ladies in waiting. This influence was not, however unresisted; for many of the youth of both sexes still continued, to a degree, to imitate the old regime. The following represents a costume of this character, and the wearer was known as a merveilleure. It will be seen that all traces of the defensive -armor have disappeared, and that great abandon pervades the whole air and manner.

[ Larger View - File Size 82K ]

The classicists were divided into two sects. The Athenians were the simplest in attire. They wore merely a narrow robe and under garments cut very low, without sleeves, and covered the neck with a mere fillet of red woolen. The hair was simply knotted behind. and the shoes were ordinarily of red morocco, laced like the dramatic buskin. As pockets were out of the question, the article called by the French a reticule, and by the English an indispensable, was introduced. The Romaines were the rivals of the Athenians, and the familiars of the fine powers of the Luxembourg. Of these, the presiding superiors were Madame Tallien and the ex-vicomptesse, who was destined soon to become an empress. The rich material of the days of Marcus Aurelius were revived. This extravagance, however, never extended to the middle classes. attendant of the Romaines was the famous Jennesse dores.

[ Larger View - File Size 134K ]

The following costume, taken from a portrait of Madame Vigre-Lebrun by David, now in the museum of Rouen, will give the best idea of one of the Atheniennes.

Costumes continued, however, various, and there was far less uniformity of dress than during the old regime. The following are all taken from portraits of that day, and, though differing materially, seem each to have been of equally bon-ton.

The bonnets are what were called casques a la Minerve and chapeaux de la Venus – reflexions of the career of the warlike Republic.

[ Larger View - File Size 68K ]

[ Larger View - File Size 63K ]

Godey's Lady's Book is brought to you by