CHAPTER XX.

TASTE AND HARMONY IN DRESS.

ONE of the first duties a young girl owes to herself is to make herself attractive personally. No living human being can afford to sneer at personal appearance, nor neglect to care for such gifts as nature has bestowed.

It is taught and drilled into boys from their earliest years that they must be strong, manly and self-reliant. Why should not girls be taught with equal consistency that they owe it to themselves to enhance the charms they may. possess, and render themselves more engaging by being fittingly attired?

It is not necessary that the item of expense should enter into the matter at all. The best-dressed women are many times those who are very economical in their outlay of money, but who devote time, thought and genius to the production of a toilet which shall be becoming and adapted to their position in life.

DRESS AND MANNERS.

To be well-dressed gives one an ease of manner that is pleasant to see. It is the experience of everyone that the consciousness of being well-dressed gives a self-possession that they can never have, if they feel that they are shabby-looking or that their clothes are unbecoming. They forget self in the first instance; in the second they cannot banish self.

It is an obligation owed society to be attractive outwardly as well as mentally; to be careful not to offend correct taste by the exhibition of glaring colors and inharmonious contrasts.

BEAUTY A COMMON GIFT.

Beauty is a gift, and everyone can lay claim to some share of this inheritance, whether it lie in a symmetrical form, beautiful eyes, a sweet voice, or a fine contour. When these charms are increased by careful attention to the details of dress, and a due regard for good taste, coupled with an agreeable manner, men cry out – "How beautiful!"

BE CONSIDERATE.

No one should tell a young girl that she is plain and forbidding. In oversensitive natures it implants a shrinking timidity that results in utter indifference to self, and soon neglectful habits creep in. They alight their teeth, or their complexion. They allow their hands to grow coarse and rough, and many other equally untidy habits follow. Boys as well as girls who are plain should study the little graces of dress and manner even more closely than their more beautiful neighbors. The social circle who are outwardly plain, but whose cultivation and taste have given them a beauty of their own, which is far superior to mere physical loveliness alone.

A QUESTION ABOUT DRESS.

The questions a lady should ask herself are – "Is my dress suitable to the occasion?" and –"Is it becoming?" Americans have the reputation of being among the best-dressed people on earth; that is, they wear the richest materials. But there is often a sad incongruity between their apparel and their position in life. By this we do not mean that they should wear a dress which would serve as a badge of their social status, but they should adapt their dress to their circumstances and occupation. The young lady in business should not wear a dress to and from her office suitable only for a drawing-room, nor should a gentleman don a dress-coat, and elegant necktie while he carried his lunch box in one hand, and held on to the strap in a street-car with the other. Ladies when shopping, assume their most expensive garments, and the girl of all-work leaves the house by the back door, dressed in such close imitation of her mistress that it puzzles a stranger to place her. These errors of judgment on the part of both are easily remedied. Dress according to the occasion. No matter how rich the material, or how elegantly it is fashioned, if it is not proper for the time and season, no lady is well dressed.

DRESSMAKERS NOT INFALLIBLE.

Too many ladies accept the dictum of a dressmaker or milliner, and are persuaded into adopting styles of dress that are very unsuitable to them, merely because they are "fashionable." It is the province of a dressmaker to bring to her customer's notice the newest fashion, and not to inquire whether they are likely to make her look like a fright or not. Ladies should think for themselves, and study their individual features and forms; they will then make fashion their subject, and not their tyrant.

LOVE OF DRESS.

We do not intend to say that women should make love of dress a ruling passion. It is apt then to become a fatal love, bringing misery and woe in its train. But they should study dress as a means, and not as an end, that they may become artistic and inventive. Mrs. S. who is slight, fair, with dark eyes and hair, wears a crimson dress, which brightens her clear skin; Mrs. J. who is short, fat, freckled, with red hair, admiring her friend's dress, at once procures its counterpart, and the effect can be imagined.

OVERDRESSING.

Avoid overdressing. A lady should not serve as a lay figure, on which her whole wardrobe is displayed. It has a bad moral effect, and is the mark of a vulgar mind. It exposes young girls to unfair criticisms, and makes older women appear ridiculous. Overdressing is particularly an error into which school-girls are liable to fall. A writer on this point, who assumes that boys' schools are vastly superior to girls, not only in the manner of teaching, but in the comfort and care of the students, refers to the cost, thus: "It takes from one to two thousand dollars a year to support a girl at these schools, including the expense of dresses." The concluding lines are so apropos, and so fully state the case, that we give them without comment: "There are a great many young ladies in American boarding-schools whose dress costs a thousand dollars a year, or even more than that sum. The effect of this overdressing on the spirit and manners of those who indulge in it, as well as those who are compelled to economical toilets, is readily apprehended by women, if not by men. Human nature in a girl is, perhaps, as human as it is anywhere, and so there comes to be a certain degree of emulation or competition in dress among school-girls and altogether too much envy and heart-burning."

The parents enter into this feeling, and strain every nerve that their girls may appear as well-dressed as their companions. What is the result? The girl leaves school, her mind not half-fitted for the practical life-work before her, with a love of dress paramount to other and more important interests.

JUDGED BY STRANGERS.

While expensive dressing or that beyond our means must not be our aim, still a certain regard for looks is a duty we owe ourselves. It is certain that we are judged by strangers, on the strength of our personal appearance. It is related of some great painter that, calling on a man who stood high in Napoleon's council, and being shabbily dressed, he met with a cold reception. But his host, after conversing with him awhile, discovered talent and sense, and on the young artist's departure accompanied him to the antechamber. The change in manner awoke a surprise which must have written itself upon the artist's face, for the great man did not wait for an inquiry, but said – "My young friend, we receive an unknown person according to his dress; we take leave of him according to his merit."

A GENTLEMAN S DRESS.

A gentleman should give the same scrupulous attention to neat dressing that a lady does. He need nor be a dandy, but he cannot afford to neglect his personal appearance. His clothes should fit him perfectly, his hat and shoes must be faultless. His hair does not call for the attention which a lady's requires, because it is short, and always cut in one fashion, but it should be regularly brushed and cared for. His beard should be kept trimmed and well-combed, and his finger nails should be scrupulously clean. His linen should be changed as soon as soiled, and his ties should be neat and tasteful, not loud and flashy. A man of sense can always please, but he is just as dependent on outward appearance for first impressions, as any lady.

DRESS ACCORDING TO AGE.

It is no doubt, a hard matter to grow old gracefully. But both sexes should learn to modify their dress with approaching age. The tints of complexion and outlines of form change, and the dress should change also. A man who has worn a beard all his life, and who, when he is fifty suddenly shaves it off, and dons a jockey cap or a "crush" hat, looks quite as silly in his affectation of youthfulness, as does the woman of the same age, who assumes a girlish hat or a brilliant-hued dress. There is a certain beauty belonging to each year of life, and the woman who dresses in consonance with her age, her figure and her face, no matter whether she be young or middle-aged, will never excite the smile of derision.

CONSISTENCY IN MATERIALS.

It is a great mistake to put cheap trimming on a handsome dress, or expensive ornaments on a cheap and flimsy material. A fine bonnet is entirely out of place with a shabby dress. Here as elsewhere, everything should be in accord. And do not when you go to market, or shopping, wear a dress rich enough for the opera, under the impression that only rich dress will stamp your social status, and prove to the world that you belong to "the upper ten." Neither is the house of God the place for such fine dressing. Showy dresses are not proper save at receptions, theater, opera, or like places.

CHILDREN'S FASHIONS.

If Kate Greenaway accomplished nothing else, by her introduction of the charming little costumes for children, she has put the mothers on the sensible road, and we see no longer the frail little morsels, with dresses to their knees, limbs shivering, exposed to the cold in, a manner that would bring tears to the eyes, were those little ones the offspring of the poor, and necessity compelled it. Warm dressing in childhood lays the foundation for a, healthy maturity. We hear no more of "hardening children." Sensible, warm garments for winter, the universal use of woolen underwear, and the adoption of those pretty, long "grandma" dresses and cloaks, has effected a wonderful revolution in favor of better health for the future.

DRESS NEATLY AT HOME

If a lady would retain her influence with her husband, she will never appear untidily dressed. No man is pleased with careless, or slovenly dress. And no woman can respect an untidy husband. Both should dress for each other's eyes, and not. neglect those little efforts to beautify themselves, that pleased so much when they were single. The most sensible and hard-headed of men take pride in their wives' and daughters' appearance. And it is with a feeling of certainty that he invites a friend to accompany him home at any time, knowing that he will not be mortified by finding his wife not presentable.

A LADY'S EVENING DRESS.

As an "evening" dress is designed for all manner of festivities, it should be of as rich material and as elegantly made, as can be afforded. The colors should be harmonious; the dress should not be so low in the neck as to excite remark. Jewelry is worn; diamonds or pearls are especially adapted to evening wear. The dress should be cut in the latest fashion, but as that changes with every moon, it is impossible to give directions on this point.

DRESS FOR YOUNG GIRLS.

Young girls do not look well in plush or velvet. Dresses of these goods are too heavy and luxurious for their fresh young faces, which should be set off with graceful, clinging fabrics. Many girls select materials that are too old for them. Older charms can wear garments of heavy texture. We have spoken of the useless display which school-girls make, and which is prejudicial to that freedom of thought and action which is the chief charm of girlhood. Simple fabrics, of small figures, prettily trimmed, and fitting the lithe young forms neatly, but never tightly, are best for the young.

BALL DRESS.

Here the taste for elegant dressing can be gratified to the utmost, as it is expected. Those who dance much, however, should wear something of light materials. There is no limit to colors. The more varied, the more brilliant is the scene under the glow of the gas-light. Jewelry is worn, but young people should wear natural flowers. Elderly ladies do not wear low-necked dresses, and those who do, throw a lace scarf or shawl over the shoulders. Steele once said that "Diamonds may tempt a man to steal a woman, but never to love her." This may be some consolation to those ladies who do not own them.

OPERA DRESS.

The dress may be very elegant for operas, consisting of a full evening costume, and the hair should be dressed with flowers or ornaments. Bonnets are not worn.

MORNING DRESS.

The dress should be simple and inexpensive, but made nicely, and linen cuffs and collars are worn, or ruches. Jewelry is forbidden by good taste. On special reception days a lady may dress more expensively. A lady engaged in household affairs may see her callers in her morning dress, but it must always be neat.

WALKING DRESS.

These dresses should be made for service; never so long that they will sweep the walk. Black or brown or slate are nice relieved by bright colors in moderation. The gloves should match in color.. Fashion is sensible in many respects, and ladies are no longer afraid to clothe their feet in strong, serviceable shoes

RIDING HABIT.

"A riding habit should fit neatly without being too tight. Too great length of skirt is dangerous; it is best when full enough to cover the feet. If too long its entanglement may throw the rider, and at best it will be bespattered with mud or covered with dust. Water-proof material is the best, though for summer something lighter may be substituted, in which case a row or two of shot should be stitched into the bottom of the breadths. The waist should be buttoned to the throat and the sleeves, close-fitting, should extend to the wrists, with linen cuffs under them. If not too warm the riding skirt may be buttoned over an ordinary skirt, so that when dismounted the former may be removed and a complete walking suit remain. The hat varies in shape and style with the season, but the neat jockey caps now worn are both sensible, convenient and secure. Whatever the style, the trimming should be plain and simple, and so arranged that it cannot blow into the rider's eyes or inconvenience her by coming off."

DRIVING DRESS.

In a close carriage a lady may suit herself as to her dress. Delicate or bright colors will not withstand the sun and dust of an open carriage, and preserve their freshness. Navy-blue flannels, brown cashmeres or dark silks are best for these occasions.

GARDEN PARTY DRESS.

The dress should be of mere walking length, that is, to clear the ground. Light wool, grenadine, or lawn are pretty; the color should be pretty, and the fit graceful. The hostess receives on the lawn, and wears her hat or bonnet.

TRAVELING DRESS.

Comfort and protection from dust are the requirements of a traveling dress. Soft, neutral tints may be chosen, and a smooth-surfaced material which does not retain the dust. The dress should be made plain, and quite short. Collars and cuffs are worn. A gossamer and warm woolen shawl must be carried, as also a sachel containing a change of collars, cuffs, gloves, handkerchiefs, toilet articles and towels. A traveling dress should be well supplied with pockets.

LAWN-TENNIS SUIT.

The pretty stripes, soft flannels, and delicately shaded plaids are worn for lawn-tennis, croquet and archery suits. A very handsome suit can be made up at very little cost. The skirt should be short, and the boots or shoes worn very handsome, but serviceable, as these games are admirably adapted for showing off a pretty loot. The waist is generally made blouse shape, as it gives greater freedom of motion.

A FEW HINTS.

Black silk is in place on every occasion. A lady shouid always count a black cashmere among her possessions. They are always useful and appropriate. White can only be worn by young, slender, and pretty women. Little women should affect small figures, delicate spotted linen, etc. Large ones cannot wear coquettish little bonnets and doll-like hats. Stripes give height to a person, and plaids apparently reduce the size. A short, squatty woman looks clumsy in a shawl. Tall figures are able to wear them.

Another matter that requires judgment is the color chosen. Any color that makes the complexion pale and sickly will mar beauty. A thin woman looks still more pinched in black. A full figure should have the waist of the dress trimmed in vest or bretelle style. Dark colors are becoming to large people.

A tiny woman should not wear a very large hat. A large woman looks well in one. It is very difficult to tell what colors will harmonize. We give a full list of those which do, and hope it will be of some assistance to ladies in making up a costume:

Blue and salmon color. Blue and drab. Blue and orange. Blue and white. Blue and straw color. Blue and maize. Blue and chestnut. Blue and brown. Blue and black. Blue and gold. Blue, scarlet and purple Blue, orange and black. Blue, orange, and green. Blue, brown, crimson and gold. Blue, orange, black and white. Black and white. Black and orange. Black and maize. Black and scarlet. Black and lilac. Black and pink. Black and slate color. Black and drab. Black and buff. Black, yellow and crimson. Black, orange, blue and scarlet. Crimson and drab. Crimson and gold. Crimson and orange. Crimson and maize. Crimson and purple. Green and scarlet. Green, scarlet and blue. White and crimson. White and cherry. White and pink. White and brown. Yellow and chestnut. Yellow and brown.

Green, crimson, blue and gold. Green and gold. Green and yellow. Green and orange. Lilac and crimson. Lilac, scarlet, black and white Lilac, gold and crimson. Lilac, yellow, scarlet and white. Lilac and gold. Lilac and maize. Lilac and cherry. Lilac and scarlet. Purple, scarlet and gold. Purple, scarlet and white. Purple, scarlet, blue and orange. Purple, scarlet, blue, yellow and black. Purple and gold. Purple and orange, Purple and maize. Purple and blue. Red and gold. Red and white. Red and gray. Red, orange and green. Red, yellow and black. Red, gold, black and white. Scarlet and slate color. Scarlet, black and white. Scarlet, blue and white. Scarlet, blue and yellow. Scarlet, blue, black and yellow. White and scarlet. Yellow and red. Yellow and crimson. Yellow and black. Yellow, purple and crimson. Yellow, purple, scarlet and blue. Yellow and purple. Yellow and violet.

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