Monday May 30th.
Left Buffaloe for the "Falls" on board the steam boat Vic tory, the distance is about 20 Miles and the fare 75 cents this includes the Stage from Chipewa to the falls, we passed on the American side of Grand Island, on going down the River the Rapidity of the current evidently increased, when we got to the end of the island we made for the American Side and landed some of our passengers, we then crossed over to the British side, in doing so I found the current so strong that I saw if any accident should happen to our Machinery we should go down the River and over the falls, but on inspecting the boat I found she had good Anchors and chain cable, so that there was no danger, we were then about 3 Miles from the rapids, and when in the Middle of the river I discovered the vapour rising from the "falls," but as yet could hear no noise. I forgot to state that our Liverpool friend who left us at Rochester joined us again on board the Steam Boat at Buffalo. at Chipewa a creek of that Name runs into the River but as it runs in the direction of the falls, the current of the River has become too strong to make headway against it, accordingly a canal has been cut inclining up the River which intersects the Creek and allows the Steam Boat to easily get into the creek, we took stage at this place for the Pavillion which we reached about 1 0 Clock. the rapids run for about two Miles, these we did not hear until we got to them, but we could not hear the noise of the fall until we were within half a Mile of it, this is accounted for by the fact of a strong easterly wind prevailing at the time and we being to the Eastward of the falls. we could however hear the dead sound of the falls distinctly above the rushing of the rapids which now are very violent. I have said that the Rapids run for about 2 Miles but I presume that the actual rapids that is where the stream is intercepted by rocks, only commence here, on arriving at the house we alighted. our Liverpool Friend entered his name at this House but it was too Aristocratic for either G B or myself so we concluded to recross to the American side. However we dined here with our friend and immediately afterwards went to survey the falls, we went by a footpath down the field in the rear of the Hotel, and soon found ourselves in full view of the Mighty Cataract. we however had to descend a steep brow at foot of which the river rolled when we found ourselves on a flat rock immediately above the falls, but we have to walk a few yards down the river on to what is called Table Rock before we can look down into the boiling cauldron into which the River pours its never failing stream, my first impression was that of disappointment, the falls though immense falling far short of my expectations, this disappointment is occasioned by the great breadth of the river which takes away from the height of the fall, this feeling however soon gave way to that of admiration, which grew upon me every time I turned my attention to it. the fall on the American side if placed by itself would be considered sublime, but when compared with the "Great horse-shoe fall" on the British side it sinks into insignificance, the water of the American was discoloured from the recent rains having swelled the tributary creeks, but the Great fall still rolled on in its primitive purity, the great body of the water being of a dark blue colour, both sides of which in the shallow water being tinged yellow from the same cause as the other, the dimensions round the curve is estimated at 700 yards, which falls in one unbroken sheet, the height of 174 feet perpendicular, the surface of the rocks is so perfectly flat near the falls that it seems surprising that the place where you stand is not overflown. this flatness continues past table rock which as I have said is below the falls, in fact the strata seems perfectly flat, and if dipping at all does so to the north East, both sides of the River correspond in the strata of the rocks, the water seems only restrained by the force of the current, and the river has evidently cut itself a Channel through the Limestone rocks, so flat are the rocks above the fall that I could stand with my heels dry and the River rushing against my toes, after feasting our eyes with the fall from our present site (Table Rock) we proceeded to the House above the Stair case in order to hire dresses and a guide to take us under the sheet, we had to strip ourselves entirely and put on flannel shirts woolen socks canvas trousers Boots an oil case coat and hat, the coat was tied close round our necks and bound round our waists, we had to pay 75 cents each, a Negro Guide then led the way, we descended by a spiral stair case which was supported by a tall mast, the whole being covered in we descend without fear, a rough path way winds along the foot of the precipice, amongst heaps of loose stones, one heap is higher than the rest, from the summit of which we obtain a view of the cavern, on arriving at this point G. B. declared he would not go under, on hearing this the Negro said if he would give him his hand he would pull him under, calling out not to be faint hearted for ladies had been under, on hearing this he concluded to follow. the Negro now told us to hold down our heads and hold our hats on but the noise was so great that he had to speak several times and practically by his signs we at length understood him, grasping hold of Mr. Robinsons hand he dragged him forward. I followed and G. B. brought up the rear, (in order to convey a more accurate idea I copy an engraving of the scene, the only correct one I have yet observed.) we then descended the heap of stones shown in the drawing and encountered the volumes of spray that was driven up by the wind with a force I did not expect, when fairly under the sheet, the force with which the water struck us was sufficient to knock a weakly person down, but further on where I suppose the water came through a crack in the rivers bed the water struck us with still greater force, the path was composed of loose stones and in some places very narrow so much so that I leaned against the rock for more security. The reason was now obvious why the guide told us to hold down our heads, the water coming with such force as to blind us if we did not, we at length got to what is called "termination rock" where there is a sudden descent and the path is no longer practicable, we were now brought to a stand and looking up found a tre mendous rock overhanging us forming a projection of 40 feet, the height from Table rock to this point as Measured by Capt Basil Hall is 153 feet, the point where the fall strikes the water in the basin cannot be seen on account of the foam and spray, the guide books advise us not to allow ourselves to be agitated by the sight or the sound of the cataract, but this I think is a quality possessed only by the guide, it is said to be difficult to breathe under the sheet. I did not find it so, though G. B. said he did. I thought of Fanny Kemble at the time and looked out for the eds she says abound here, but saw none, we now retraced our steps which seemed more difficult than on our entrance. G. B. took the lead the path being so narrow that our Guide could not pass us, the stones are so loose that they give way under our feet, and I walked on the edge of my boots with my shoulder against the rock, when getting to that part where the fall is the strongest. G B fell down but soon recovered himself, on seeing him fall I shuddered with horror believing that he would roll into the chasm, it was however merely the work of an instant and we walked rapidly from under the sheet, and proceeded to the staircase, when arrived at the top we found several Ladies and Gentlemen who laughed heartily at our grotesque appearance, we got into the house and threw off our clothesand rubbed our bodies dry, for notwithstanding our coats being tied round our necks the water washed through, we dressed as quickly as we could and then found ourselves quite warm and comfortable, signed our names in the book got certificates from the guide, (his perquisite) we now found ourselves in excellent spirits and journeyed on to the ferry, the road to which winds down the steep rocky bank, here Mr. R. parted with us, and G B. and I crossed in the ferry boat to the American Side. I could not have thought it possible to have gone over so near to the "Falls." our boat was a large one, and the oars made fast so that they could not wash away, the violence of the current certainly pitched and rolled her considerable, and we went so near the fall that the spray fell pretty heavily upon us. I think the finest view is obtained from the Middle of the river, we here see the full extent of both falls. I cannot find words to describe the appearance of this awe inspiring spectacle. I shall therefore not attempt to do so, and so exclaim with Fanny Kemble "Oh ! God, it is indescribable." Landed on the opposite side we ascend by another spiral staircase, and walking a few yards we find oursdves in Manchester called so I presume from its having no one feature like it, two Inns and 20 or 30 houses constitute the entire place, perhaps they do intend to make it into a Manufacturing Town, at all events they have advertised the falls for that purpose, but it never will succeed, the fact of its being so far from a Market, would I think prevent it, did not the long and severe Winters present another obstade. We now proceeded to view the American Cataract from above, there is a communication from the Main land to Goat Island, by means of a Bridge constructed over the rapids, it rests on Wooden Piers sunk with stones, it extends to a Rock about 300 yards from the Shore, and from thence to the Island, so that this fall has only 300 yards uninterrupted current, but even this is broken up by smaller rocks. On the Rock before mentioned a Paper Mill is erected, which is not very likely to be short of Water, there is also a toll house where we have to pay 2 shillings for the season, underneath the bridge the rapids have a frightfull appearance. Goat Island is thickly Wooded and has a very beautiful walk round it, here I found the Wild Gooseberry and currant, very abundant, this Island is 185 feet above the Gulf. Nicholas Biddle, the Great Bank Man, has at his own expense erected a communication with the base of the Island so that we can walk between the two 'falls.' a flight of stone steps takes us to the Stair case (a spiral one). it is 80 feet high, there is also 88 feet of stone stairs at the Bottom. I went down this place, and found a couple of hammers placed at the bottom for the purpose of breaking specimens from the rocks, so I made use of one of them, and got a specimen. There is also another bridge from the Island to a rock immediately above the Great Horse Shoe Fall. on this rock is erected a stone tower which completely overlooks the fall, there has also been a projecting stage quite over the "Fall," but it has got out of order, the guards being broken off and one of the beams nearly broken in two, it was also so slippery with the spray that I would not venture upon it. Mr. R. went out about half way, but turned back. the Evening being now pretty far advanced we shaped our course to our Inn, the next Morning we went over the same rounds again, and afterwards crossed over to the Canadian Side, at the ferry took a waggon for the Burning Spring about half a mile above the falls, we took the route of Lundy's Lane where a very sharp contest took place during the last War, in that Engagement the British lost 878 and the Americans 860. the Burning Spring is covered with a Shed, which a Man has in charge, and you pay one shilling each for his trouble in showing it. this water is overcharged with sulphuratted hydrogen gas, and smells very disagreeable, the gass is given out very plentifully and burns with a bright flame. we went to the Village of Chippewa, prior to our embarking again for Buffalo. this place was also the scene of an Engagement, we took leave of his Majestys dominions and proceeded up the River again, we left at half past 2 O'Clock. Slept at the Mansion House, the next Morning walked to the Indian Reserve, and went 3 or 4 Miles into it, this is a strip of Land 30 Miles long and 6 wide, and is entirely occupied by the Indians. they have not the power to sell the land to any persons but those constituting the Government of the U. S. consequently they cannot be easily plundered, these Indians are civilized and have a Church and School, the land is of excellent quality and some of them pretend to cultivate it. we saw one ploughing with a yoke of oxen, and another driving his squaw in a waggon, he had an excellent span of Horses, one of their Houses had a Portico before it, but most of the others were Miserable hovels, we tried to get into conversation with them, but could not succeed, they are a very proud haughty race, and though I wished to have some chat with them, I was glad to see them hold their heads so high. I afterwards saw some specimens in Buffalo that would talk to you as long as you could wish, but they were drunken Vagabonds and so filthy that I would not go near them, the Men can mostly speak the English Language, but will not do so when they can avoid it, the Women or as they are called "Squaws" neither can nor will do so, and pride themselves on their ignorance, they all wear blankets and undergarments, and a kind of pantaloons, some of them tastefully decorated, they also wear hats, though many are without. they are of a dark brown colour with long black hair and a Chinese cast of countenance, some of them had very regular features, and a bright complexion and dressed very neatly, although numbers passed us we could not detect any of them looking at us, but passed by us as they would do a post, we saw two or three papooses (or children) one in a kind of basket work strapped upon its Mothers back, the others were in the blanket on their Mothers back, in point of appearance the bulk of the squaws bore the greatest resemblance to Gypseys. we observed many of them heavily laden taking baskets to Buffalo for sale, the Men are principally occupied in the summer time by fishing, and in the Winter by Hunting, some of them were fine looking, and were generally, dressed like other people, tho some had their blanket made into a coat, they have 17 chiefs and there is about 20 Men to a chief, they have a pension from the U. S. which will prevent them from starving, and if they were industrious might be in affluent circumstances, as each man can enclose as much ground as he thinks proper. their church is a good frame building and the land is cleared round it. I copied the following inscription from a headstone the rest being only marked by sticks
In Memory of the "White Woman"
Mary Jamison, daughter of Thos. Jamison and Jane lrwin, born on the Ocean between Ireland and Philadelphia in 1742 or 3. taken Captive at Marsh Creek Pennsylvania in 1755. carried down the Ohio, adopted into an Indian Family in 1759. Removed to Genesee River, was Naturalized in 1817. removed to this place in 1831, and having survived two husbands and five children, leaving three still alive, she died Sept. 19th 1833 Aged about 91 years having a few weeks before expressed a hope of pardon through Jesus Christ.
Returned to Buffaloe and made further enquiries respecting a passage to Port Stanley. found it was quite uncertain when the Steam Boat would arrive. She having broken her beam and gone into Sandusky to repair, and there being only this boat that touched on the Canada shore, owing to an Easterly Wind prevailing no sailing vessels could come down the lake, and all the Port Stanley Craft had left the Port save one, and she was only going 40 Miles up the Lake, consequently I should still be 140 Miles from John Walthew. therefore, much to my regret, I had to make up my mind to submit to the disappointment and make the best of my way home. I therefore made a parcel of what I had for him and left it with a Mr. Ratcliffe to be forwarded when Mr. Mason should arrive, and on the Morning of the 2nd of June I left Buffalo, and arrived in New York safe and sound - taking the same route that I came.